Building a Deep Learning Machine – Part 2: Installing Motherboard, CPU, and CPU Water Cooler

Installing the CPU

The machine build began with installing the CPU. The CPU is an Intel Xeon E5-1620 v4. Although the processor is a v4, it is designed for a LGA 2011-v3 socket consistent with the ASUS Strix X99 motherboard. I described why I chose this processor in Part 1 of the series.

The LGA 2011-v3 socket on the motherboard has a protective cover to prevent exposing the pins any longer than necessary. The cover warns the user to keep the cover on the socket until after installing the CPU. Removing the cover just before installing the CPU is also fine since the pins are covered once the CPU is pressed into the motherboard socket.

LGA 2011-v3 socket on the Strix X99 motherboard

I opened the socket cover by releasing both spring levers to an open position.

The CPU should be aligned with the arrow on the CPU corner aligned with the arrow on the motherboard socket before being placed into the motherboard socket.

The CPU and motherboard have arrows shown on the lower right corner.

The socket is closed and spring levers are returned to their locked position. Some force is required to press the CPU contacts to the motherboard contacts in order to lock the spring levers. Finally the protective cover is removed.

Installing the motherboard

The PC case is a Phanteks Eclipse P400 Tempered Glass Edition midtower.

Installing the motherboard into the case was straightforward since the board is aligned with the rear I/O connection on the case. The case is built to conceal wires behind the motherboard and has two wire ports located on the opposite side from the rear I/O connection. The motherboard has 9 screws to attach to the case.

View of motherboard and chassis from above with the rear I/O connection along the bottom.

As my first PC build, I learned the hard way that the thermal paste is already layered on the water cooler interface out of the box when I compared the water cooler size to the CPU by placing the cooler on the CPU. I was able to salvage the situation and make the final alignment the same as when I first transferred the thermal paste to the CPU to ensure the thermal paste coverage is consistent.

Installing the Water Cooler

I bought the Corsair H60 water cooler which has a single 120 mm radiator and fan. This water cooler gets good marks on PC part picker for being economical (currently $70) and effective in its price range.

A main consideration before installing the water cooler is whether to apply aftermarket thermal paste. Thermal paste is necessary to ensure suitable thermal contact between the cooler and CPU. Water coolers will come with thermal paste already applied by default. Tests are inconclusive about whether aftermarket thermal paste improves heat transfer; I have seen tests demonstrate worse heat transfer with aftermarket paste. Factors can include the quality of default thermal paste and how well the after market paste is applied. I decided to use the default thermal paste and will trend the temperatures in operation.

The radiator should be positioned against the case wall with the fan oriented as an inlet fan as recommended by Corsair. This setup ensures cooler air is drawn over the radiator to produce a larger temperature delta rather than warm air from inside the box. The Phantek Eclipse P400 provides space for the water cooler radiator and fan on the top of the case. I positioned it towards the front to be closer to the exhaust fans.

The Corsair H60 screws directly into the top of the Intel processor socket on the motherboard. AMD processors are attached with adapters from behind the motherboard.

The Corsair H60 has a 15-pin SATA power connection which will connect directly to the power supply.